Monday, February 20, 2017

Nuno felt tutelage 羊毛混纖教學


Set of nuno felt garment done by students with their ideas.
A wrap with a bit raw fleece and vest with light fringe.
  
A wrap with silk chiffon base and merino wool is soft. 
It's February now and a bit warm in our sub-tropical Hong Kong.  Yet we still like to do wool felting. My designer friends (Martin & Iris) wanted to explore the versatility of wool, particularly the skill of seamless garments making. Days before they came to my home for 2-day tutelage  I first introduced the wool layout and steps of wet felt sample making.

春暖花開, 設計師朋友仍感興趣學習羊毛氈的奇妙結合, 這兩天特別來我家私人教授羊毛混纖技巧, 在 Mogi 遊走間, 製作了圍巾與背心.

Then the skills of textures making.  With my own natural dyed scraps for one side and the other of plain ruffe. 
They started the layout for scarf making on the first day.

Martin likes to make men's wear so this scarf is long for two rounds for himself.

Iris wanted a light one with just a little wool that's good for all seasons.


The second day we're into nuno felt making.  Usually I do big projects in the open yard but there's noisy renovation next to my unit.  So we've to move indoor. 
 You see who's the curious company all the time around us?

Mogi, "you have to put a light merino to cover the mulberry."
Student, "oh yes that can stick them together."
Mogi, "rub everywhere for 40 times that will make it felt easily."
That brat is my assistant !
After some rubbing, rolling and fulling...... the warp's finished.
Final touch for Martin's seamless vest.  His fashion design idea makes the vest unique.
 

It's Martin's first encounter with wool felt. The seamless skill is what makes his curiosity. This may not be his pleased outcome but certainly he will develop inspiration in his collection. 
The same tone of wrap and vest. Looks a nice set.

Monday, February 13, 2017

Nuno felt dress 羊毛混纖裙子

The nuno felt dress I just made with a designer's leftover.

一位年青時裝設計師 Martin 給我他用剩的數位印製蕾絲,布料是他特別為早前「水上華服誌」官門水道漁民生活況的服飾設計, 我利用羊毛混纖製作了這裙子,黑白分明,長長捲曲的羊毛混在其中,我姑且名為「官門水道之浪花」,其實這也是我們課程製作的樣本參考。

 
  
 Indeed this is the leftover of digital printed lace a young fashion designer, Martin used for his project for the recent floating fashion gala.  The lace printed with Chinese characters of the waterway and images of people who lived in that area.  I asked Martin for the piece to try the nuno felt skills. With little Wenslaydale curls I tested.  It works.
In the coming days  I will have private tutelage for the nuno felt garment making. So I made use of the leftover for the sample making.
 With the silk chiffon base, some merino wool, little mulberry silk and banana fibre......
A medium dress with cobweb sleeves is made. 
Mogi approves it !

  
Here's the front and back look.
 

Top of both the front and back are rich textures and drapes well.
Sample of simple yet elegant dress.
 This will be my own dress for a special occasion.

Thursday, February 9, 2017

Eco printed purses making 植物印染小包包

 Very quiet Chinese New Year holiday.   Dug from stash some fabric prints I made some purses.  


Contact prints direct from strobilanthes on woollen kindly from Nicola Brown.   She bought from Cushendale Woollen Mills in Ireland.  Such bold and impressive prints from my own grown strobilantes which are usually for indigo vat.
 I made two purses with the woollen

 

 Another purse made with wool flannel with prints of eucalyptus on both sides. 
Braided strap of iron dye.
 Found a few other pieces of teaching samples. The wool felt prints and silk prints.  They're just easy to sew together to make the simple purse.

        
     Purse with wool flap as decoration


 It's small just fit the iPhone or as key purse

Other than these I made lots of purses with sample prints recently.  Just wanted to make use of the scraps but really I can't use all. They may be a giveaway finally.
If you like to learn the basic natural contact prints the tutorial is available from my ETSY

Monday, January 23, 2017

Floating fashion gala 「水上華服誌」

 
The Hong Kong Heritage Museum located by the river is perfect to showcase the rustic costume of boat dwellers. 
座落河堤的香港文化博物館正好是這次展現水上人文化埸地

 


(My design series of rustic costume inspired by boat people, photo credit to Vincent Mak)

In support  "Conservation & Succession" of local fisherman culture, I joined the community project organised by "Art for All" help preserve the heritage of fishing culture and traditions in Hong Kong.  Part of the project is fashion show.  I made a series of rustic costume based on the original style of woman's clothing with diagonally front and collar with my modern skills of natural printing and dyeing.   Fashion gala showed in the Hong Kong Heritage Museum recently. 
最近參與「全人藝動」以水上人文化的「保育傳承」活動,其中之部份有我的植物印染鄉土服以水上人的傳統服裝演變設計的系列「慢活時裝」, 就在這田合院風格的香港文化博物館展出。

Garments made with natural plants prints and indigo dye.
Even braided knots are handmade
Prints of sumac on linen and euc on silk pants
Green from tumeric & indigo dyes and euc prints
Traditional fisherman top and pants. I made the flap prints with eucalyptus while the pants designed by Evelyna Liang.
We're superb!
(photo credit to Vincent Mak)
The original dressing of Tanka boat people designed by other designers

(photo credit to Vincent Mak)
 The contemporary wedding dressing designed by Martin So
 
After the show, group picture in the courtyard

Thanks for the models and my very good friend Amy dressed in the theme to support the event.
I was glad to show the modern design of traditional clothing with natural resources.  Way to keep the style of unique garment made with patience - "slow fashion".
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